Apexy PowerFC

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Apexy PowerFC

Сообщение MMX » 01 июн 2018, 09:05

Постараюсь собрать в этой теме как можно больше информации по настройке Apexy PowerFC.
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Re: Apexy PowerFC

Сообщение MMX » 01 июн 2018, 09:06

Калибровка мап сенсора


Calibrate any MAP sensor to your Power FC

I had to dig a lot to get this info, so I thought I'd share.

If you are using a non-standard MAP sensor (something other than the factory gen3 or the Apexi), you need to calibrate it to work with your engine. I am personally using the Greddy MAP sensor that was included with my electronic boost gauge. No need to spend the extra $$ on another one!

These instructions assume that you have the FC-datalogit.

The two factors are scale and offset. Just so you know what we are calculating:

a line can be calculated by: y = mx + b

Scale: defines the slope of the voltage of the MAP sensor. ("m")
Offset: the y intercept. ("b")


Turn key to "On" position but do not start the engine.

Start with 41,800, 0 settings (scale, offset)

Go to the "Map Watch" screen, and add "Advanced PIM".

Note the PIM at atmospheric pressure (eg 9,950) = PIM0

Use a pressure pump to supply 100kPa boost and note the PIM (eg 20,050) = PIM1

Now calculate the new scale factor:

SF = 41800 x 10000 / (PIM1 - PIM0)
SF = 41800 x 10000 / (20,050 - 9,950)
SF = 41386

Now, plug in the new SF, then adjust Offset so that atmospheric - PIM = 10,000 and boost should also be 0.

Please note, I have not yet tried this myself. However, the logic seems to flow and looks right to me. I hope to use this formula this weekend.

I hope this is helpful for you.
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Re: Apexy PowerFC

Сообщение MMX » 07 июн 2018, 08:48

Unit Information:

What does the unit do?

The unit is a full replacement ECU for your factory computer. It is not a piggyback system and as such allows full control of the engine and computer controlled systems. It comes with a base map of your cars computer with base map tuned for basic mods such as exhaust, boost controller, air filter upgrade. "The Power FC is a complete, stand alone, total engine management system capable of handling virtually anything thrown in its path." - www.apexi-usa.com

What cars is the PowerFC supported on?

Standard Versions

Honda Civic Type R 97/6-98/8
Honda Integra Type R 95/9-01/6
Mazda RX7 Series 1-3 91/12-95/11
Mazda RX7 Series 4 95/12-98/12
Mazda RX7 Series 5 99/1-00/9
Mitsubishi Evo V 98/1 - 98/12
Mitsubishi Evo VI 99/1-01/1
Mitsubishi Evo VII 01/2 - 02/3
Mitsubishi Evo VIII (EVO VII PFC + 4E73G013 EVO VIII Harness) - VIII MR might not be supported
Nissan RPS13 (Black Head) 94/1 - 96/7
Nissan RPS13 (Black Head) 96/8 - 99/1
Nissan RPS13 (Red Head) 91/1 - 93/12
Nissan S13 Red Top 91/1 - 93/9
Nissan S14 93/10 - 96/5
Nissan S14 96/6 - 98/12
Nissan S15 99/1 - 02/7
Nissan Skyline BNR32/BCNR33
Nissan Skyline BNR34
Subaru WRX Ver1,2 92/11-96/8
Subaru WRX Ver3,4 96/9-98/8
Subaru WRX Ver5,6 98/9-00/7
Totoya Mark II, Chaser & Cresta JZX100 manuel 96/9-01/7 1JZ-GTE
Toyota Altezza SXE10 01/5 3S-GE
Toyota Altezza SXE10 01/5 3S-GE
Toyota Altezza SXE10 98/10-01/4 3S-GE
Toyota Altezza SXE10 98/10-01/4 3S-GE
Toyota Celica ZZT231 99/9 - 2ZZ-GE
Toyota Mark II, Chaser & Cresta JZX100 Automatic 96/9-01/7 1JZ-GTE (Mark II only to 00/9)

Djetro Version

Mitsubishi EVO V CP9A 4G63 98/1-98/12
Mitsubishi EVO VII CT9A 4G63 01/2- 02/3
Nissan 180SX RPS13 91/1-93/12 SR20DET (Red Head)
Nissan 180SX RPS13 94/1-96/7 SR20DET
Nissan 180SX RPS13 96/8-99/1 SR20DET
Nissan Silvia PS13 91/1-93/9 SR20DET(Red Head)
Nissan S15 SR20DET 99/1-02/7
Nissan Skyline BNR32/33 89/8 - 98/12
Nissan Skyline BNR34 99/1-02/8 RB26DETT
Nissan Skyline ECR33 Special Bundle Kit (See here)

What cars is the PowerFC not supported on?

Vehicles such as the Nissan Stagea are not supported however the Stage features a Skyline engine (either rb25de, rb25det, rb26dett) engine and standard computer, so a suitable PowerFC for same engine year/model *should* work fine engine/computer.

The Apexi PowerFC is purely an injector and ignition driver but is it suited around specific car models to suit their sensors and control signals. It is possible to make it work on other unlisted models or cars but it would require extensive re-wiring and/or sensor matching to make it work.

Vehicles such as the Nissan Skyline R33 GTST that feature the Active-LSD or A-LSD and SLIP function (lights on the dash and vspec diff) will suffer A-LSD compatibility problems. The car will operate correctly and the diff should as well however you will experience "A-LSD" error/failure intermittently. To date there is no known solution for this problem. It appears to be only present on the R33 RB25DET. There was a limited run of R33 known as the GTS25TML spec which is the M Spec with Active LSD. The diff is a skyline GTR vspec diff, electronically controlled LSD instead of a normal R33 diff. It features the same finned cover and A-LSD function as the Skyline GTR. The A-LSD and SLIP functions in the Skyline GTR with the Skyline BNR33 PowerFC work fine, only the ECR33 with ECR33 PowerFC is affected. See here for some discussion on the topic.

There is now an unofficial Fix for the A-LSD problem found in the ECR33 Skyline. Please click here to view how to fix it; https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107 ... active-lsd

What does the unit look like?

The PowerFC looks and is usually in the same ECU case as the standard ECU for your car. This is because it needs to use the same car loom adapter, same brakets etc so its usually the same physical shell & bolt holes for the ECU braket. The hand controller is a lightweight and ergonomic device with a backlit LCD screen. The screen is larger enough for most tuners and owners to use and operate. It includes enough functionality from the 4 main buttons and PREV and NEXT to control the car, make changes, update the tune etc. I would recommend all owners buy the PowerFC with the hand controller - It is very basic without the hand controller and you can't update/change anything.




What are all the menus and functions on the unit??

Here is a function list of all available options from the Hand Controller.
This is for every PowerFC version so you won't have some of these on your Hand Controller.

Note: Some items are not avaiable on various units (ie: PimVolt only on DJetro and Map Sensor versions)
Note: Some factory items do not work - Airtemp on R33 GTST

AirTemp - Air Temperature
Airflow - Airflow Meter Voltage
BatVolt - Battery Voltage
Boost - Boost Pressure (Bar)
Eng Rev - Engine RPM
IgnT Ld - Ignition Leading (Rotary only)
IgnTmng - Ignition Timing
IngT Tr - Ignition Trailing (Rotary only)
InjDuty - Injector Duty
Knock - Knock Sensor
PimVolt - Map Sensor Voltage (DJetro only)
Speed - Speed KM/H
WtrTemp - Water Temperature
Acceler. - Acceleration Enrichment
Airflow - Airflow Meter Voltage Table
Boost - Boost Pressure
Cranking - Cold Start Cranking Table
IGL Map - Ignition Leading Map (Rotary only)
IGT Map - Ignition Trailing Map (Rotary only)
Ign Map - Ignition Map
Ign/Inj - Ignition and Injection Temporary Adjust
Inj Map - Injection Map
Injector - Injector Latency
Pim Volt - Map Sensor Voltage Table (Djetrol Only)
Rev/Idle - Rev and Idle Settings
Wtr Temp - Water Temp Correction Table
Prog. Version - Display PowerFC and Hand Controller version
Sensor/SW check - Sensor check page
Function Select - Function Select
02 F/B Control - O2 Sensor Feedback Control - Open/Closed Loop
Airflow Warn - Airflow Meter Warning - 5v Peak (Engine check light)
Boost Cntl Kit - Apexi Boost Control Kit
Idle-IG Cntrl - Map Sensor Idle Logic (Djetro only)
Injector Warn - Injector Warning (Engine check light)
Knock Warning - Knock Sensor Warning
LCD/LED adjust - Backlit display contrast adjust
All Data Init. - Reset to Factory Defaults

Apexi went to great lengths to ensure you could control everything that a tuner would need with minimal fuss.
The interface is very intuitive and easy to use. It appears as they didn't opt to include un-needed/un-necessary things such as monitoring oil pressure from the hand controller, oil temps, and other sorts of "nice to have features".

As these would add development cost, extra sensors etc. The unit is a very efficient plug and play unit for a very cheap and affordable price. Extra junk just adds development cost, which increases the price. So basically everything you need is via these menu's.
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Re: Apexy PowerFC

Сообщение MMX » 08 июн 2018, 08:42

Is there a menu roadmap?

For a menu road map check out the following picture, coutesy of Autospeed:


Does the unit work on my N/A car?

It has been rumored the work with unconfirmed reports. The model however is still suited for the turbo version of the engine so timing, ignition, maps etc may be unsuitable. There are a few N/A PowerFC versions for the Honda etc so they do exist, its just more common for the turbocharged models.

Does the unit work on manual and auto cars?

The PowerFC only supports manual cars (excluding Toyota). It will work on an automatic car however it will not handle gear changes and simply keep the throttle nailed during a gear change. This will result in jerky gear changes and stress placed on the gearbox. The factory ECU during a gear change will communicate with the auto box and drop timing, ignition to ensure a smooth change. For those wishing to use PowerFC with auto you should consider a mechanical auto gearbox instead of an electronic. The PowerFC should work fine with a mechanical gearbox such as power glide, transbreak etc.

This is because the mainstream ECU's in Nissan etc rely on the main cars' ECU for gear logic change control and functions. Cars such as the Toyota have a seperate ECU for the gearbox change logic and control so it's not affected. Apexi chose not to port the Automatic gearbox logic code (as its very long and complex) into the PowerFC because I suspect they found its simply not worth it & too complicated. You can buy an Automatic PowerFC for a Toyota Chaser for example and it has auto logic control under SETTING, you can set the shiftmap, ramp up speeds etc as it has the code to interact with the Toyota AUTO ECU that is seperate to the main ecu. So in summary - Auto PowerFC's exist & work but only for Toyota. We have seen quiet a few Auto R33 Skylines with manual PowerFCs - some report they work fine etc and there is no difference - do so at your own risk.

How much does the unit cost?

The unit currently retails around $900 AU delivered from Japan for a new unit. However as Apexi have altered their production plans this only applies to some select models. Other models must be sourced 2nd hand from forums, ebay, other members etc. For AP Engineering models they are more expensive as they are a custom made model and retail is around $1500 AU or even higher. Recent pricing indicates around the $920 mark is more realistic. There are some workshops or resellers that list they have the "Australian" version of the Apexi PowerFC. This is simply the same PowerFC but sold with an Australian delear or reseller warranty. Normally your PowerFC needs to be sent to Japan for a warranty claim and/or testing. With an "Australian" version it can be done locally supposedely.

There are also unconfirmed rumors of the local distributors being able to supply the latest firmware for the PowerFC. To date the latest firmware I have seen on ECR33 is 5.11 which was from Mid Oct 2006 build. The price of the "Australian" PowerFC is somewhere near $1500 so its not even worth the cost, given the mean time between failure of the PowerFC's. Basically if it fails, you've done something wrong or have a dodgy wiring loom / hacked up loom.

Lately it seems everyone is cashing in on the "discontinued" situation that the PowerFC is in.
The main models are still in product, its just slower and takes longer to get one on order new from Apexi.
I would be careful in how much you pay for a PowerFC these days. I have seen upwards of $1600 AU for a used unit these days on Ebay.
The places I would look for 2nd hand PFC's would be your local car club, Ebay and Yahoo Japan auctions (lots on here usually).

There has been a recent update to the discontinuation of some PowerFC models since June 2012.
Apexi it looks like are now making some previously discontinued models. Examples of this includes ECR33 and ER34 powerfcs.
You can buy these brand new from most Apexi suppliers now and one that comes to mind is nengun.com which stock both models, brand new.

When I buy the PowerFC what comes in the box?

The current PowerFC comes with the following items

Apexi PowerFC ECU
Apexi PowerFC Hand controller
Apexi PowerFC Japanese Manual
Apexi PowerFC Japanese Warranty Card
Velcro Sticky tabs for use with the Hand Controller

This applies to new units purchased. Previously the older style new units were the main ECU only.
Some time around 2004 ish Apexi decided to bundle the hand controller and ECU as one main price.

Why would I want to buy a PowerFC?

There are many reasons for changing to a PowerFC the most common being to extract more power from the current engine setup. Your cars factory computer has many limits and conservative settings to ensure engine reliability and to ensure factory components do not have excess load placed on them. As you upgrade these components the factory computer will not retune itself and therefore you will not obtain your maximum benefit. You can reset your cars ecu (works in most Skylines) and it will relearn your engine setup and adjust accordingly but that is only basic tune settings. There are much more advanced tune settings available with the PowerFC.
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Re: Apexy PowerFC

Сообщение MMX » 08 июн 2018, 08:45

Model Information

Is there an English manual? a PDF copy? English translation?

An outdated english manual (for the RX7) is available at English Commander Manual. Right click, Save as

The current Japanese manual can be found at Japanse Command Manual (updated) Right click, Save as

For a complete Japanese Manual matrix on the Apexi site go here: http://www.apexi.co.jp/manual2/pdf/torisetu_p_fc.html

Japanese Manuals (high quality PDFs)
Name Link
PowerFC Manual 3SGE Right click, Save as
PowerFC Manual RX7 Right click, Save as
PowerFC Manual Nissan (180sx, 200sx, GTST, GTR) Right click, Save as
PowerFC Manual Evo Lancer Right click, Save as
PowerFC Manual Evo Lancer DJetro Right click, Save as
PowerFC Manual MR2 Right click, Save as
PowerFC Manual 180SX Right click, Save as
PowerFC Manual SR20 Right click, Save as
PowerFC Manual Honda Integra Right click, Save as
PowerFC Manual Skyline GTR Djetro Right click, Save as
PowerFC Manual Chaser JZX100 Right click, Save as
PowerFC Manual Subaru WRX Right click, Save as
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Re: Apexy PowerFC

Сообщение MMX » 11 июн 2018, 07:51

What model do I need? (Version Matrix)

Version Matrix
Version Alternate names? Input Type Extras
Standard LJetro or just normal PowerFC Airflow meter normal unit
Djetro Map Sensor PowerFC Map Sensor normal unit with map sensor input instead of AFM
Pro FC Pro - PowerFC Pro AFM Launch control (0km/h limiter) & Spark cut (instead of fuel cut) at limiter
AP Engineering AP Eng AFM usually These are remapped PFC's to suit extra cars (ie R33 RB25 GTST PFC remapped to suit R32 RB20 PFC)

You cannot mix and match models - Some cars only have access to some models etc. ie: There is no Djetro version for R33 GTST - There is no Pro version of Evo 8 etc. Apexi release some models in all 3 flavours to suit the market (Skyline GTR gets all 3 options). Some models can be back ported to other cars ie: R33 GTR can work on R33 GTST so you can have R33 GTST Djetro (and Pro etc). Some AP engineering releases can be Pro versions too. There are some counterfeit FC Pro versions out there (buyer beware).

Click here to read up on the PowerFC Djetro Version
Click here to read up on the PowerFC Pro Verion
Click here to read up on the PowerFC AP Engineering Version

You should note that all models are now discontinued other than standard Ljetro versions. Apexi no longer make Djetro, Pro or AP Engineering versions. You need to source these models 2nd hand from Ebay / forums etc.

What is an "AP Engineering model" and do I need it?

"A.P. Engineering Original Power FC units carry the same functions as the regular Power FC units but have been specially adopted for use on car models that the regular Power FCs do not cater for. As they are an item outsourced from Apexi, their pricing is higher than the regular models." - www.greenline.jp. An example of an "AP Engineering" model is the PowerFC for the r32 gts-t.

AP Engineering versions are no longer available brand new. You need to purchase one second hand if you want to buy one.

What is the "D-Jetro" model and do I need it?

The D-Jetro Power FC units carry the same functions as the regular Power FC units but do not require the use of the factory standard air flow meter and use a mass air pressure sensor. Apart from the unit itself, use of the D-Jetro units requires additional parts that vary depending on the model." - www.greenline.jp The airflow meter (at least in the skyline range) does not pose a big restriction in terms of horsepower and one would doubt the use of the D-Jetro. If you really need massive airflow you can always change to 2 x Q45 Airflow meters and use those with the PowerFC. The skyline series are optimized for closed loop operation with an airflow meter.

The Djetro version has a few caveats you should know about before you consider using it

Careful placement of the map sensors in multiple throttle body systems
With multiple throttle bodies, such as the Skyline GTR RB26 or the Pulsar's GTI-R SR20 multiple throttle bodies can have bad side affects when using a map sensor system. Consideration needs to be taken into account when placing the map sensor (or map sensors) for the Djetro system to avoid idle problems on multiple throttle bodied engines.

Tuning will take considerably longer
It will take considerably longer to tune a Djetro PFC over a normal LJetro PFC. This is because all of the work has to be done from scratch instead of just doing the main bits in the AFM/LJetro version. You should discuss this with your tuner and find out the total cost for a Djetro tune.

What is the "Power FC Pro" and do I need it?

The Power FC Pro Spec.CPU has been designed for drag racing use. These units have two additional functions over the regular units: 1. Ignition cut used for rpm limiter - Regular Power FCs cut fuel feed when the preset revolution limit is reached. At high rpm, there is the possibility of knocking when the fuel is cut in high-powered cars. The Power FC Pro CPUs cut ignition at the rpm limit to prevent the knocking that could potentially destroy the engine. 2. 0km/h rpm limiter setting - Allows for the setting for an initial rpm limiter that is active whilst the car is not in motion. This allows for mainting a rpm level for consistent launches.

PowerFC Pro versions are no longer available brand new. You need to purchase one second hand if you want to buy one. There have been reports or rumors surfacing of fake PowerFC Pro units that are just the normal standard versions.
The true PowerFC Pro versions have some unique features which give them away.

Have a look at What does the PowerFC look like inside? to identify what a PowerFC Pro version looks like.
The dead give aways are the older style main board with the top mounted expansion chip (same as AP Engineering).

There was a common assumption that a PFC with an "FC Pro" sticker on the case, meant it was a PowerFC Pro unit. THis is NOT correct. The "FC Pro" sticker identifies that you can use it with Apexi's Power Excel Software, nothing to do with the PowerFC Pro (spark cut and 0km launch control model). I have no other information on how to verifiy if its a true legit FC Pro unit other than starting the car up and checking ETC, VERSION before buying.

There should also be a sticker on the main ecu which would read something like "RB25PRO1" or "RB26PRO1". Under ETC, VERSION on the hand controller you should see a similar version string "RB25PRO1" or "RB26DETTPRO1" etc. It should definetly have PRO in the version string - There have been reports of people reflashing the Pro hand controller to normal FC code (don't see why u would?) Be sure to double check before you buy it to make sure its a legit PowerFC Pro version.

For some more discussion on the this topic check out gtr.co.uk;
Power FC Pro identification help




What does the "FC Pro" sticker mean? Why is it there?

The first generations of PowerFC units were only tunable by the hand controller.
You weren't able to plug in Datalogit or Apexi's Power Excel software.

Then some time later, Apexi changed the main board logic and control and included the ability to tune via their Power Excel software (and datalogit).
So customers could work out what units were able to be tuned by Apex and the software they started placing "FC Pro" stickers on the case.
This would allow Apexi and a customer to work out what unit they should purchase so their local Apexi dealer could plug it in and tune away via Power Excel.

How can I translate/check my serial number - What does each part mean?

There are two issues here

1. No ones gives a rats ass about Power Excel and most use Datalogit

2. Most people (including me) assume that "FC Pro" means its a PowerFC Pro unit

So, if you see a unit with an "FC Pro" sticker, it means absolutely nothing.

There are a number of units, that are tagged with an "FC Pro" sticker.
The build dates (serial numbers) are - 05/1996 till 1997

So units in the range like PFC RB26 9608 XXXXXX up until PFC RB26 9800 XXXXXXX - it will have an "FC Pro" sticker on it.
This would apply to RB25, RB25, SR20 etc - all mainstream units.

There are two distinct serial number schemes used in the PowerFC model #'s.

First generation is


YY is the build year
MM is the month
XXXX is the unique item #

Second Generation is

Where ### is the batch build number, so 000 or 010 or 020 (ie batch build 010)
XXXX is the unique item #

AP Engineering units are;

YY is the build year
# is the batch build number
XXXX is the unique item #

XXXX is the unique item #

Nissan Skyline - Old Version (YYMM style serial #)

AP Engineering RX7 - Old Version (A style serial #)
& AP Engineering AE86

Nissan Skyline - New Version (### build style serial #)
& Subaru WRX - New Version (### build style serial #)

Nissan Skyline - FC Pro Badged Version (YYMM build style serial #)
See notes below for FC Pro

Another oddity we noticed is that all the 1996 built Skyline RB26 models (414-N001) I've seen so far have a FCPro sticker but a regular firmware version. This conincides with what we have seen in the wild, where a number of PowerFC Pro users, report they have standard PowerFC unit - but its badged as a Pro version. So if you buying an FC Pro version to suit Skyline RB26 - Make sure it doesn't have serial # -> 96??-???? as its probably a normal version

Thanks to Andre from FC Tune for the version string and info
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Re: Apexy PowerFC

Сообщение MMX » 15 июн 2018, 09:38

What other optional parts are available for the PowerFC?

Here is an almost complete of optional parts for the PowerFC.
Note they do not work or plug into all models, some parts are Djetro only, some are Ap Engineering only etc.

Hand Controllers
Name Part No
Hand Controller (Old Style (To suit ENGINE MODEL STYLE PFC - IE: PFC RB25 or PFC RB26) & AP Engineering old style) 415-N001
Hand Controller (new Style (To suit CAR MODEL STYLE PFC - IE: PFC ECR33 or PFC GTR33L) & Multiversion hand controller) 415-X001
Hand Controller Toyota 415-T001
Hand Controller Toyota (JZZ30 only) 415-T003

Hand Controller Extension Cord (Make your own)
Name Part No
Hand Controller extension cord 60cm 415-XA01
Hand Controller extension cord 3m 415-XA02

Boost Solenoid Kit (To read and display Boost on the hand controller)
Name Part No
Apexi Boost Sensor (Boost Control Kit) 499-X001
Apexi Boost Sensor Harness (3 pin PFC) 49C-A002
Apexi Boost Sensor Harness (5 pin PFC) 49C-A003

Apexi Official Software (not recommended)
Name Part No
Apexi FC Commander Pro software 415-X010

There are other optional parts avaiable you just need to find the part numbers.
In actual fact I recently brought the Boost Control Kit in parts and found it cheaper in parts, I guess this is becuase of the way its shipped in a medium box.

Is the PowerFC Pro Discontinued?

Apexi have discontinued the PowerFC Pro model which was the special version of the PowerFC that had IGN cut instead of Fuel cut and also had a REV LAUNCH function holding the rpm at a set value at 0km/h. For some cars the PowerFC Pro model exists (RB26, RB20, WRX) but for most models it has been discontinued. Apexi have not released any information as to why the model's have been discontinued or if there will be a new model coming out. Those customers who must have the Pro models should look for a 2nd hand unit instead.

For alternate solutions for "Pro" style functionality check out Apexi PowerFC Djetro PRO - Does it exist???

Hybrid Apexi PowerFC models and mix n match models, can it be done?

Whilst this type of work is possible and it can work there are some known gotchas and things that don't work so be sure to read it in full and understand everything before you go ahead and do it. Lastly there are some workshops that can do this for you, this is common for exmaple using the RB26 GTR PFC on the R33 GTST, there are workshops who can fit this and tune it for you. Some of the known gotchas are the 02 sensors, loss of VCT and AFM ramp tricks that are required to make it work.

It is in fact possible to interchange Apexi PowerFC models to suit other engines. That is to, rewire an existing model to work on another engine and loom. Below is a list of the combinations possible and how to achieve the goal of making it work. Please note this information is taken from the Forums are various peoples opinions and ideas, it is not %100 guaranteed nor have I tested each of these myself, so you've been warned.

Apexi RB25 PowerFC on RB20
To run the RB25 PowerFC you need to swap injector triggers for cylinders 4 and 6. This is wires 112 and 114 on the RB25 ECU pinouts diagram which can be found here. You also need to run larger than rb20 injectors. You should be able to swap to Rb26 440cc injectors without much fuss and this should work, providing you dial in the correct injector latency and correction (and use the resistor pack).

Apexi RB26 PowerFC on RB20
The traditional Ap Engineering RB20 model is in fact and RB26 model remapped to suit the RB20 loom and sensors. The main differences between the two is Airflow meter and 02 sensors. The RB26 having two, and the RB20 having one of each.

Two AFM:
If you are using two airflow meters you will need to run wiring for the second airflow meter manually as the RB20 loom only has support for one airflow meter.

One AFM:
If you are using one airflow meter you can simply parrallel up the airflow meter signal into the second input on the RB26 ecu. The ECU will average out both signals despite it coming from the same airflow meter to work out engine load (or airflow load).

02 Sensor:
The RB26 uses two 02 narrowband sensors to run in closed loop correctly. Simply parrallel up the oxygen sensor into the second 02 sensor input on the RB26 ECU.

Hybrid RB30DET
You can use any variant of the Apexi PowerFC on the RB30DET. It would be easier using one that suits the head you are using and loom. The likely recommendations for the RB30DET would be the RB20 or RB26 version. You don't need to worry about VCT with either of those choices.

If you use the RB26 PowerFC on your hybrid or standard engine you have the best pick of the bunch. You have the following advantages;

Able to use two airflow meters when a single becomes a restriction Have access to the Apexi PowerFC Pro version Have access to the Apexi PowerFC Djetro version

Apexi PowerFC RB20 vs Apexi PowerFC RB25 wiring
Here are the main differences in the wiring loom for the RB20 vs RB25


Differences between RB20 and RB25 looms

Here is a version matrix for all the Skyline PowerFC's and their feature set

From here you can see the RB26 version is the pick of the bunch if you are going to run a different PowerFC for your engine/head combination. Choosing the RB26 version allows you to select

Djetro or Ljetro
Pro Version
Single or Twin AFM (if single parrellel up the single AFM onto both AFM inputs)

As an experimental branch I am trying to wire up and sell 26 PFCs to suit Rb20 and Rb25. This will negate the lack of production by Apexi/NEC and give Rb20/Rb25 owners a chance to still buy and use the PowerFC.
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Re: Apexy PowerFC

Сообщение MMX » 16 июн 2018, 09:09

Apexi LJetro Vs Apexi Djetro - Whats the deal??

For some time this debate has gone on with various opinions and ideas with no real concrete evidence/proof or logic to back it up.

There are two distinct differences between the LJetro and Djetro PowerFC (and presumbably other LJetro/Djetro ECU's) and we will discuss them as this is a hot topic.

Having since worked out the mathematics behind the Load axis calculations for both the Ljetro and Djetro versions of the PowerFC I can show you how they are both calculated.

First we should look at each base model and how it works;

Apexi PowerFC Ljetro Version
Uses standard airflow meter
20x20 Load Map
Other addtional supported airflow meters (selectable on menu)

Apexi PowerFC Djetro Version
Uses optional supplied Apexi Map sensor
20x20 Load Map
Other addtional supported map sensors (selectable on menu with correct voltage and offset)

Both units are scalable upto 1100bhp with supported modifications, sensors, injectors etc.
i suspect the ljetro version was created first, and then Apexi following demand added the Djetro version for some select cars as they found customers were migrating to other ECU's to map sensor support.

Ljetro Vs Djetro Load Axis:


Both have arbitary values for Load indiciation, Djetro has higher RPM as its from RB26 Djetro

Airflow Meter Ramp:


Voltage Ramp for Airflow meter load signal. Infinitely scalable, as we can rescale any given airflow meter.

The most commoin airflow meters are supported out of the box, Z32, Q45 and Apexi Power Intake.
Seemingly all the Apexi Power Intake does it alter the ramp values, which should yield slightly higher airflow load values, which should drop them on the map 1.3rows if that, ever so slightly.

Map Sensor Ramp:


Voltage Ramp for Map Sensor. Each sensor has a single Offset and nothing more. Fixed offset value
Optional Map Sensors include GM5bar map sensor and Denso unit's also. The Apexi one is in fact a Denso unit. The only map sensor supported out of the box is the optional Apexi one (denso rebadged).
GM 5 bar and other sensors need their scale and offset placed into the PowerFC to work.

Apexi Ljetro Load Calculation:
LOAD = CORRECTION * (16384 * Airflow lookup(MAFSV) / RPM)

Airflow is proportional to RPM so this is why we are divisible by RPM.
We obtain MAFSV from our running environment.
We lookup the Airflow value from the Airflow ramp table (viewable by datalogit) and use this value.
We lookup the CORRECTION value from the Airflow corretion table, for 4.48v and higher my correction is 84%

ACR MAPN MAPP Rpm Load MAFS1 V MAFS2 V Inj ms Inj +/- IGN Dwell Boost Duty WtrT AirT Knock
0 11 14 4694 10725 4.705 0 15.568 256 21 51 -760 95 75 175 7
0 10 14 4591 10918 4.73 0 15.88 256 21 51 -760 95 75 175 4
0 11 14 4725 10915 4.745 0 15.952 256 21 53 -760 95 75 175 1
0 11 14 4950 10956 4.835 0 16.08 256 21 54 -760 95 75 175 3
0 12 14 5175 11121 4.9 0 16.528 256 21 58 -760 95 75 175 7
0 12 14 5202 11153 4.93 0 16.632 256 21 58 -760 95 75 175 7
0 13 14 5561 10997 4.99 0 16.464 256 21 62 -760 95 75 175 3

LOAD = 0.84 * (16384 * 3598 / 4950)

The answer gives us 10003.57 and we can see for load point 14 we have an Load value of 9642.
The load value for point 15 is 11571 so we place our load axis on 14 with a value of 10003

As we can see here the load will always increase as the engine speed increases.
More and more air comes into the system and thus airflow load will always keep increasing until redline.
There have been doubts over this as many people see bog stockish R33 GTST's drop to load points 15 and shoot across.
This is due to the fact they are maxing our the airflow meter at 5.10 or very close to.
The reason it drops to load point 15 is because the majority of them have airflow % correction somewhere near 80% for 4.48v and higher.


Appexi Djetro Load Calculation:
LOAD = Map Sensor Offset * Map Sensor(PIMV)

We lookup the Map sensor offset and use this value (viewable by datalogit).
We obtain PIMV from our running environment

BatVolt MAPN MAPP Rpm PIM PIM V TPS V Inj ms Inj +/- IGN
14.3 2 8 1515 6565 1.996 0.501 2.111 152 14
14.3 2 8 1499 6414 1.95 0.501 2.007 152 14
14.3 2 9 1536 6782 2.062 0.501 2.176 152 14
14.3 2 9 1529 6696 2.036 0.501 2.184 152 14

LOAD = 3289 * 1.95

The answer gives us 6413 and we can see for load point 8 we have an Load value of 5938.
The load value for point 9 is 11571 so we place our load axis on 14 with a value of 6681.

As we can see once pressure is fixed or doesn't increase any more, the load value doesn't.
This will result in a horizontal shoot across method once target boost pressure is reached.
This is because the Djetro version uses air pressure and runs a guesstimation method to calculate airflow.
As the engine speed increases more and more air comes into the system, pressure remains the same and the load axis remains the same.

The Djetro has two additional features which are;

IGN vs TPS correction
INJ vs TPS correction

These are there presumably to assist in correction for the throttle position sensor.
These will have an affect on the output figures but don't appear to adjust the load bearing.
These are much like Airtemp correction or water temp correction, they affect values but don't adjust load bearing.



-> Out of the box, works great, plug and play nothing more to add/change
PR: This is suitable for the majority of customers
-> Supports factory airflow meters and larger models
PR: This is suitable for the majority of customers and tuners (less fiddling the better)

-> Some tuners/owners believe the airflow meter is a restriction
PR: Turbocharged cars have a restriction after the compressor outlet, not before.
-> Once you max out the airflow meter it can't show any more useful load to the ECU
PR: Once you max out a given airflow meter, move to a larger unit with higher resolution.
If you stay with an airflow meter maxing out (stockish GTST customers) then you basically have the same
load bearing as Djetro customers. Once you peak or reach max airflow (the most the AFM can show) then Load doesn't increase anymore.
This is dead obvious for stockish GTST customers who do a map trace.


-> No air intake restriction
PR: Turbocharged cars have a restriction after the compressor outlet, not before.
-> No airflow meters in pipework
PR: This can be helpful for large twin applications. It may also help avoid chuffing or compressor shuffling.
With correct pipework and bends you should be able to run twin MAF's or even a big single MAF relocated in the after FMIC pipework
-> Can't max out airflow meters
PR: This is a valid Pro. But once you max out any airflow meter simply change to a larger unit or more scalable unit.

-> You loose load point resolution once you reach target boost (horizonatal shoot across, as pressure never changes)
PR: This would be my main caveat of moving to map sensor system, the lack of tuning points, as the map isnt a 20x20 useable map anymore.

Apexi PowerFC Djetro PRO - Does it exist???

From time to time there are various rumours or confusion over specific ECU models. The Apexi PowerFC DJetro PRO does not exist for retail sale / standard production use. The Apexi drag car is believed to run a Djetro PRO version which gives it spark cut, 0kmh launch control and djetro. I believe Apexi have simply modified the mainboard firmware to include both chipsets, being Apexi they can do whatever they like.

There are two ways that I can think of to achieve this goal;

Apexi PowerFC Pro & HKS VPC (Vein Pressure Conveter)
The VPC is an old legacy HKS device which lets you run map sensors and emulate standard AFMS.
I dont think it is supported on the mainstream skyline branch but I have seen it for z32 300zx.
I have also seen someone run an rb26 Djetro PFC on a 300zx as they are compatible (with changes).

Apexi PowerFC Djetro & Gizmo Launch Interface
The Gizzmo launch interface is a spark cut / anti lag box which runs in parrallel of the 6 igniton drivers.
This provides on demand spart cut for anti lag launches and flat shifting.

Why buy a PowerFC? Aren't they discontinued????

As everyone knows the PowerFC's future is in doubt. Apexi have had some financial issues and now there are delays with ordering models.
Some units have been scrapped and wont be made anymore. But nevertheless the are still thousands of second hand units on the market.
There are still plently of tuners around and still plently of workshops who support it. I am even trying to resurrect the RB20/RB25 powerfc by using an RB26 PFC and a custom loom.
So needless to stay its not like all the PowerFCs in the market will magically vanish or disappear tomorrow so keep on 'trucking'.

There are however some alternatives to the PowerFC on the market and we should not be biased here, as that is not fair.
I'm a proven Apexi PowerFC fan but like any ECU it has downfalls and bad sides, most things do.
So let's look at some of the alternatives and how they compare;

Greddy Emanage
Motec M800
Wolf 3d
Remapped ECU

Below is some brief ntoes on each of the units and my thoughts / knowledge on the them.
This is by far no means of a techincal comparison or tuners views on each of them.
You should ALWAYS discuss any ECU choices with your tuner before you even start.

Greddy Emanage
The Greddy Emanage is a piggyback system onto the stock ECU.
That is, its a generic remapper for stock ECUs. So if you have a GTR, GTST, Evo, Subuaru etc the emanage can sort it out.
Its a stage 1 interceptor which intercepts IGN, INJ, and all the main sensors to control the car and let you "tune" the main system.
The stock ecu is still present so complex things like 4wd, traction control, abs systems etc work just as normal.
The unit needs a main harness to suit your car but the unit is generic so you can sell (or buy it from) it to anyone.
Once installed you can make relevant changes as needed such as airflow meter changes, AFR tuning, IGN timing etc.
There are some limits into the size of the injectors you can run and other changes as its an interceptor but all in all a good unit.
I have never been a fan on a remapper/interceptor but if I was going to choose one, the emanage would be the one.

The HKS FCON is by far one of the more advanced and suprior ECUS for the japanese domestic market.
This bad boy suports EVERYTHING known to man and more than you can poke a stick at.
AFMS, Map sensors, twin kits, everything is virtually supported and it includes a 32bit ecu with 32x32 map area.
The HKS FCON has its drawbacks however, in Australia only one place can tune the FCON which is BD4's in Sydney.
SO if you live in Melbourne, forget it you can't touch jack shit on the ECU. There is a graphical FCON unit but I dont think its the equiv of the PFC hand controller.
The HKS FCON is locked to the HKS pro writer software so you can touch it with laptop software of your own hacking. Tuners need to be official HKS pro tuners to get the software. So if there are local HKS FCON tuners in your area go nuts, get it and enjoy, but for most there are no local HKS FCON tuners so its useless. Much like a mines ecu, no local tuners. I would love to try out this ECU and see how far and how much you could tune it, but sadly I cannot as I am not a certified HKS tuner (haha).

These two little brothers are like pea's in a pod. You cant link them together directly but they give a good comprimise for standard ecu owners.
These two mates are favourable among the Auto market which the PFC does not support Auto cars (well nissan anyway).
Running both of these lets you bend IGN timing to your hearts content and make the ecu think your AFM is drunk to get some more power in and out.
All in all not a bad comprimise if you dont have a choice or cant go for a good supported stand alone (ie: auto ecu etc).
Cheap, cost effective and works well. You will be limited by this setup so be careful.

Motec M800
Enter SATAN. The bad boy of the ECU market that dominates all.
The Motec is a complete stand alone ECU for any car, any setup, any scenario.
You can choose inputs, outputs, engine control, batch or sequential fire, anti lag, fuel or spark cut, complete map control and 3rd dimension selection.
There is nothing the Motec cannot do. It is mainly used for rally and race cars but can be used on a street car. This ECU costs a fortune and is the ultimate stand alone ecu.
I would not recommend it for a mild skyline but you certainly can use it, it will just cost a lot. There are lots of local tuners so that shouldnt be an issue and everything is supported.

I do not have much to say about the Autronic as I know very little about it. As far as I know its a stand alone mutli-purpose ECU to suit most cars.
It has good local technical support and a range of tuners as well. I believe you have options of AFM or Map sensor and it also enters the 3rd dimension letting you tune in 3d via Throttle Position Sensor (maybe others too?).
The Autronic has things like antilag, launch control and a few other cool features so its not a plain vanilla ECU. This is aimed at race/competition cars.

I know jack shit about Haltech

Wold 3d
The Wold 3d has been one of the older generation ECUs for generic cars.
It has been locally supported and developed in australia for some time now. I think you get the choice for AFM or MAP so thats a bonus.
The newer Wold 3d v500 has extensive support for most of the comon features and extra stuff most users need, they say it even rivals motec/autronic.
I dont see any issues with running a wold 3d, but like most ECU's you need to find a range of good local tuners to sort it out for you.

Remapped ECU
Running a remapped ECU is cool and cost effective. It lets you tune the stock ecu (providing its supported and doesnt cost a bomb) and gives you good bang per buck.
You can support almost anything within reason, such as larger AFMS, bigger injectors etc and still retain factory control.
The main issue with remaps is you cant adjust jack shit once its remapped and most tunes are expensive each time as they do a complete burn of the chip.
Ie; its not like they can just change timing via a hand controller each time. The user also has no control or real time interaction with the tune.

I know jack shit about Link

So there you have it, a quick glance over some of the more common ECU's and what they have to offer.
If you disagree with any of these comments, please send me a pm on SAU or email me (paul@paulr33.com) and let me know.
I am happy to correct any incorrect info, mistakes or bad opinions. If you have an ECU you think should be on this list let me know also.

What's the Apexi D1 Limited Edition Hand Controller?

There was a limited build run of approx 100 units of the D1 Limited Edition D1 style hand controller. This was a gold stylish hand controller and worked just the same as the normal hand controller units. I Suspect it was a plain run of X001 hand controller to suit most models as there was only 100 made. From all that I can see its simply a gold case - I have no working photos of the unit in action etc.


Special Thanks to Skylineowners for the picture.
If you have any working pictures or a copy of "ETC, VERSION" from this hand controller please send it through to my email address

I have the older PowerFC that did not come with a hand controller can I buy a new hand controller separate and use that?

You may be able to depending on the version of the ECU and hand controller. If the version between the ECU and Hand Controller is different the Hand Controller will boot up the Apexi logo and freeze. Take this as a precaution as a few people have experienced this. If you experience the hand controller freeze problem click here to get some help on it.

My Hand Controller freezes at the Apexi Logo. Why???

Pay attention to the version matching and you can't go wrong. Your local supplier can order the correct hand controller for you. If you can't find a supplier can source the older styler and newer style hand controller (N001 and X001) for you new at a new price. If you are after a 2nd hand unit you can try Yahoo Auctions, Ebay or even Jap Parts at

What's the new Apexi PFC EL Hand Controller and what is different?

Apexi have released a new version of the PowerFC Hand controller which is the Apexi EL PFC Hand controller.

The part no is 415-A030 and this is the new "multi-version" PFC Hand controller.
The new version is confirmed to suit all powerfc models including Pro, Djetro, AP Engineering etc (only exclusion is Toyota JXZ100 Auto)
It essentially looks like FCC3 with a different screen model. The original units had LCD (Liquid crystal display) vs EL (Organic LED).
The EL / Organic LED screen's are found in the Apexi AVCR, SAFC and VAFC controller so it should look the same as this.
The official version is FCC4 on the hand controller
Knock bar chart display in 4 channel view (prev only display as bar chart in 1 channel view)
English only text in ETC, FUNCTION SELECT (previously japanese characters)

Here is the official product - thanks Duncan from Skylines Australia



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Re: Apexy PowerFC

Сообщение MMX » 19 июн 2018, 08:56

Considerations before use

Does the PowerFC run the whole car or do I need controllers for... (Aircon, Lights, ABS etc...)

The PowerFC emulates all the functions that your standard computer did. This includes things like Aircon, Lights, ABS etc.
What ever your car did with the standard ECU, it will do the same with the PowerFC.

Does the PowerFC have limits?

The PowerFC does not have limits such as speed limiter or boost cut the factory ECU has to prevent engine stress / excess load. It has adjustable idle, rev limit and on-load idle. You can set your cars rev limit to whatever you like. 10,000rpm if you like.

There are no hardset limits in terms of power, killowatts, horsepower or turbo size etc its purely as good as your tuner. So if you have a good tuner then there is no logical/physical boundary etc. The Apexi 1200HP drag car uses a PowerFC for its main ECU (no surprise).

What are the basic mods I should have when I get my PowerFC?

You can fit the PowerFC whenever you like however a basic list of mods is a great start as you’ll get the most gain out of it from the standard computer

Full Exhaust 3" from turbo back
Boost Controller (Bleed Valve or Electronic Boost Controller - Or you can use the PowerFC boost controller kit)
Air filter upgrade / Pod filter or CAI setup kit
Upgraded Intercooler

How does the PowerFC compare with the Apexi SAFC, AVCR and other Apexi computers?

The Apexi AVC-R and SAFC are piggyback systems. The SAFC controls airflow voltage and fakes airflow voltage to the ecu. This makes the ecu believe more airflow is present and cranks up the fuel/timing thus resulting in more power. The AVC-R is a boost controller and not really a piggyback as such.

Apexi SAFC - Piggyback Fuel Computer
Apexi AVCR - Boost Controller
Apexi VAFC - Vtech and Piggyback Fuel Computer
Apexi Imoni - Diagnostics display from consult port
Apexi Multichecker - Diagnostics display from consult port
Apexi PowerFC - Standalone Engine Management

Apexi SAFC vs Apexi PowerFC, whats the difference?

My cousin Peter just brought an Apexi SAFC for his R33 skyline and he had it tuned and made 204rwkw. It cost him $300 and $250 for a tune. Most people simply assume you can make power and expect 220rwkw.

They will both make very close to the same amount of power if both have been tuned correctly. But clearly the PowerFC winds hands down if it has been tuned correctly and has a bulk of its load points tuned. If you have the IGN and INJ tuned in the low load / light load areas the car will feel much better to drive, response will be better and fuel economy better than the SAFC + stock ecu. The main difference is the PowerFC will support more mods and if tuned correctly will feel like a new car to drive.

Both are only as good as the tuner.

Car 1 - rb25det with SAFC
Car 2 - rb25det with PowerFC

The truth is that car #2 isn't likely to make twice the power as the ecu costs twice as much. It all comes down to tuning and how the car drives, average power is the key here. The engine should feel nice on throttle response (IGN timing), come on boost nice (IGN timing) and cuirse will with good economy (INJ tuning). I would expect the power difference to be 5 to 10rwkw at the most in the midrange and top end.

Distinct Advantages:

Adjustable IDLE
Configurable knock warning
Configurable injector warning
Configurable airflow meter warning
Airflow meter change support
Injector change support
Complete ignition map control
Complete fuel injection map control
No speed cut
no excess airflow cut (aka boost cut)

The main problem with an SAFC and increase power levels is that its still a piggyback and when you tune more and more, it's still a comprimise. As you try and lean it out more, it (the stock ecu) advances the timing as a result, which results in more detonation. The end result is it has to be richer than is needed, to avoid detonation. With the PowerFC you can simply dial in whatever AFR's you like and IGN timing to suit, anywhere on the map. This would certainly give a good power advantage in the midrange and top end.

How does the AVC-R compare to the PowerFC boost controller kit?

You can obtain the similar functionality from the AVC-R as you can from the PowerFC with the boost controller kit installed. The AVC-R and the PowerFC boost kit use the same solenoid and map sensor parts. It is confirmed that you can switch the AVCR solenoid and map sensor to the PowerFC boost kit but it should work. You can make the PowerFC display boost pressure without buying the Boost controller kit by buying the map sensor and using the Boost Kit Harness.

Parts list: What other optional parts are available for the PowerFC?

You will need:

Map Sensor
Map Sensor Harness

The main difference between the AVC-R and the PowerFC Boost Kit is the AVC-R can do gear judge or predictive gear based boost control and it has the pretty blue screen. The code logic, solenoid parts, wiring etc is the same.
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Re: Apexy PowerFC

Сообщение MMX » 20 июн 2018, 21:07

How do I install the PowerFC?

Disconnect your cars battery and discharge all power from the car. You can do this by unplugging the battery and pressing the brake pedal a few times. Locate your cars computer and unplug the factory car wiring harness. The harness is usually screwed into the ECU so you need a Phillips head to undo the bolt in the middle. Once you have removed the factory-wiring loom you need to remove the ECU from its brackets. You can simply unscrew it and pull the ECU out. Once it has been removed put it in a safe place in case you need to go back to your factory computer. Put the PowerFC in its place and plug in the factory wiring loom the same way it came out of the stock computer. Be sure to note which way the ECU came out and match the pins/wiring notation correctly. Once it has been secured with the holding down brackets/screws you are now almost ready to start your. Before you start the car for the first time you should give the ACC key turn power so the hand controller turns on. If you are not using the PowerFC boost controller kit make sure you disable this feature. Go to the "Etc" menu and choose "Function Select" and then choose "Boost Control Kit" and set the option to a Japanese character that looks like a plus sign. This will disable the PowerFC boost controller kit. The PowerFC manual states to start the car, ensure no errors are present and let the car idle for at least 30 minutes. During this idle period wait about 10 minutes, turn on the air con, wait another 10, turn on the demister, wait another 10 minutes or so and then your car is ready to drive. If you short cut the self learn idle procedure once the car is turned off and back on again it will simply stall each time. If this occurs you must factory reset it again and do the procedure from the st.art

Disconnect Power
Unplug stock ECU
Plug in PowerFC ECU
Reconnect Power
Start Car, let it idle for approx 10 minutes before doing anything
Turn on aircon, let it readjust its idle and wait about 10 minutes
Turn on demister, let it readjust its idle and wait about 10 minutes

All done and you are ready to drive with your new ECU now. At this point you should familiarise yourself with using the hand controller and just checking the initial sensors and make sure the basic options are turned on and you know how to read the basic information.

Below is a list of things you should check before heading off to your tuner. These are just precautions and will make sure its ready to be tuned and avoid any silly problems at the start.

Installation Checklist:

Sensor Check
MAIN MENU, ETC, SENSOR SW / CHECK Look for any sensor names highlighted in BLACK background or any flashing sensors. Any highlighted in black indicates a problem. The engine check light will also stay on if any of the sensors aren't working (highlighted in black). This is not to be confused with the black DOT switch on / off sensors.


Stable Idle

The car should have a stable idle and shouldn't hunt. If it is hunting (revs bounce up and down a lot) and you can hear the engine "hunting" then you should consider a re-initialize and self idle learn again. If you don't have stable idle the car will be sucky and frustrating to drive.

Engine vitals OK


Select the following


WtrTemp when the engine is warm and stable should be around 70 to 80deg.
Knock at idle should be 0 or like 1 or 2 at the most. Give the engine a few revs, ensure it returns to zero.
BatVolt should be around 14 at idle. Too low is bad and Too high is bad. over 15 is bad and under 14 can also be bad.
Airflow should be stable at idle, around 1100mv (millivolts). Should increase when you give the engine a rev and should return to around 1100 ater it returns to idle
EngRev should be similar to what the stock tacho says, it may be out a little bit. Ensure it follows stock guage when you give the engine a rev.
InjDuty should be around 1 to 2% at idle and should increase considreably when you give the engine a rev.
Boost (if not using the boost kit it will be ---) should be around -500mmhg at idle and should goto near 100mmhg with a free rev.
IngTmng at idle should be around 15 or 20deg. Should increase considerably with free rev.
No engine check list or exhaust temp light

The cars factory engine check light or exhaust temp light should NOT be on. If this is on or flashing it indicates a sensor problem. See the "Sensor Check" section on what to look for to identify the faulty or wrong sensor.
Restart the car a few times to ensure its stable

Restart the car a few times to ensure engine check light doesn't come on and idle is stable

Help! My car doesn't start once I've installed the PowerFC

Check that you've disabled the PowerFC boost controller kit in the step above. Check that you've chosen the right model PowerFC. Check that you've securely fastened the wiring loom and its not loose. Some cars only (for some strange reason) have half gauge wiring running from the battery to the ECU. This works fine for the factory computer but the PowerFC needs the full 12volts. You can simply run new 12volt wire from the battery to the ECU and this should correct this. This problem has been experienced by at least two members previously (both in R33 GTST) If the hand controller displays the Apexi logo and freezes then you have the wrong hand controller version or its damaged. If you find your car cranks, starts and stalls immediately you should check you have entered the correct injector and airflow meter settings (if they aren't standard items). If you still do not have a stable idle follow this procedure <

Turn car off
Turn car to ACC
On Hand Controller, ETC, DATA INIT, YES
Turn car off
Turn car to ACC
Change AIRFLOW and INJECTOR as needed (if different from stock)
Turn off Boost Control Kit (if not being used)
Start car and follow idle procedure

Failing that take the car to a mechanic/tuner who has worked on the PowerFC and see what they can sort out for you. It's pretty rare for a PowerFC to not start first shot - so double check the list, ensure you have done a DATA INIT on it and restarted the car etc before going further.

Once the PowerFC is installed can I expect any better performance or does it HAVE to be tuned?

It is always recommended that you get your PowerFC tuned for your cars mods. This will take into factor things like a lazy fuel pump etc that will be missed with just the factory tune. A full tune will ensure your A/Fs are safe and the engine is not excessively knocking and you are getting maximum benefit from the new ECU. A standard map will have benefit over the stock computer as it wont have built in limits the factory computer has and it also controls things like Variable Valve Timing better (on r33 RB25det at least) and provides more torque in the rev range without a tune.

Can I drive around without it being tuned for a few days? Months?

You can drive the car around as you would normally but you should take care not to put stress on the engine. Basically don't fang around in it, as you could be running unsafe A/Fs etc and just causing more damaged. Best to get it tuned. Make sure you watch the knock levels if you do this to make sure there isn't excess detonation.

Help! My car doesn't idle once I've installed the PowerFC

Your car should idle straight off the bat when it is installed on your car and you start it for the first time. Make sure you complete the idle procedure correctly and let it idle for 10 minutes in each stage. If you rush the idle self learn procedure you may end up with a car that doesn't idle. If this happens simply reset it. You should also check to make sure your AIRFLOW meter is selected correctly under SETTING, AIRFLOW (you can do this before you start the car).

Have a read of My idle is really crappy and it hunts around a lot when on idle. What can I do? for some more help on unstable idle etc.
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Re: Apexy PowerFC

Сообщение MMX » 23 июн 2018, 09:15

Basic Hand Controller functions and use - Monitoring

Basic hand controller use is very simple and you can check and ensure your engine and system is running happily. Monitoring Values

Highlight "Monitor" on the menu and press NEXT and then select how much values you wish to view and then press NEXT.

You can now select which items you wish to monitor from the menu below

InjDuty - Injector Duty / How busy the injectors are
IgnTmng - Ignition Timing - Camshaft timing
AirFlow - Airflow meter voltage
PimVolt - Map Sensor voltage
Eng Rev - Engine revs
Speed - Road speed
Boost - Boost Pressure (requires optional boost kit fitted)
Knock - Knock sensor reading
WtrTemp - Water temperature or engine temperature
AirTemp - Air inlet temperature (sensor is not fitted on ECR33 skyline, DO NOT attempt to make this work)
BatVolt - Battery voltage

(Standard ECR33 Skyline menu options shown)

If you want to monitor your injectors and airflow meter select both of them after you choose 2 channel and then press next. You will then see them in their digital output mode on the hand controller. You can press UP to show their maximum values at any one time. You can press right to clear their maximum values. Any max values you see are cleared when you turn the cars power off.

The knock sensor when you view it by itself (1 channel) will give a bar graph like display showing knock. The Knock value is not number of knocks per second or knocks per engine turn, its just a number. The factory knock sensor is a microphone in the engine that listens for a certain frequency. When it detects this frequency it registers this as a knock, the higher the value the worse it most likely is.

Airtemp will always display --- on the ECR33 skyline as there is no air temperature sensor on the RB25. GTR / RB20 uses will have a value displayed which should show the air intake temperature. On the RB26 this sensor is located next to the throttle body inlet.

when viewing values via MONITOR you can also press NEXT and it will alternate between digital display and graph mode. When in graph mode you can use the "replay" function by pressing up and then PREV / NEXT

Basic Hand Controller functions and use - Checking Functions

Checking Functions
Highlight "ETC" and then choose "FUNCTION SELECT".

BOOST CNTL KIT - Enable/Disable optional boost controller kit
AIRFLOW WARN - Enable/Disable airflow warning
INJECTOR WARN - Enable/Disable injector warning
KNOCK WARNING - Enable/Disable Knock warning
02 F/B CONTROL - Enable/Disable 02 feedback

If the boost control kit is turned ON and you are not using it (not plugged in) the car will not start.
If the AIRFLOW WARN is set to ON the engine light will flash when the airflow value gets near its ceiling limit of 5 volts.
If the INJECTOR WARN is set to ON the engine light will flash when the injector duty values gets to 98%
If the KNOCK wARNING is set to ON the engine light will flash when the knock level exceeds 60
If the 02 F/B is set to ON the engine will utilise the factory oxygen sensors to save fuel


If you see your engine light flash whilst driving then goto MONITOR, 4 channel and then select


Then repeat the same process and then press UP on the hand controller once you see the engine flash to check the max levels of each sensor you are monitoring. You can then work out which is causing the engine light to flash. On a stock ECR33 with the basic mods fitted youll find that you are maxing out all the factory sensors so in that case I turned my AIRFLOW and INJECTOR warnings to OFF and leave the knock sensor warning to ON. So if you see the engine light flash its a kNOCK warning and should be taken as a true "warning". You should speak to your tuner if you see high knock levels and the engine light flashing. A knock level of 60 is considered quite high.
If you have 0/2 Feedback turned off the PowerFC will not enter its closed loop feedback mode and will waste fuel and be very un-economical. Expect bad fuel economy

Basic Hand Controller functions and use - Checking Sensors

Checking Sensors

Highlight "ETC" and then choose "SENSOR/SW CHECK"
If you goto ETC and then choose SENSOR CHECK/SW you will see a list of sensors and corresponding values. These report values that the current sensors are returning. This can be useful for checking faulty sensors and to check if a certain sensor is working expectedly. Below is a translated list of the ECR33 PowerFC


Are there any hidden/secret features? Stuff you can't access by the Hand Controller?

If you have the PowerFC cable and software or the datalogit kit you can get to a few features that arent supported on the hand controller.

You can download maps to your PC and save them.
You can set the fan temperature turn-on value to below lower then 60deg.
You can set the millisecond values for the engine flash light for AFM, INJ, KNK levels.
You can access and control the air temp correction table.
You can adjust load map points by extended the airflow measure levels.

The follow tables/settings are also changeable

Inlet air temp fuel map
Water temp fuel map
RPM acceleration fuel map
Cranking Injector dwell map
Water temp versus boost fuel correction
Inlet air temp versus boost fuel correction
RPM Load Point table
AFM load point table
AFM voltage table
Ignition versus water temp correction
Ignition versus inlet air temp correction
Ignition dwell versus RPM correction
Ignition versus battery voltage correction
Ignition versus boost correction
Individual injector trim
Injector lag versus battery voltage correction

The following functions can be supported by additional hardware with Datalogit

Antilag via injection
Antilag via ignition
Intercooler spray
A/C and non A/C overheat fan temp switch.
Every standard sensor is logged
Optional logging for (lambda, brake temperature, suspension travel etc)

The PowerFC has a map for inlet air temperature which is not accessible by the Hand Controller but the table is still used by the PowerFC if it picks up Air Temp from the factory sensor. The Skyline RB26 has this sensor and the stock GTST loom can be adapted to support this sensor and allow the GTST PowerFC to read the value.

Does the PowerFC have any laptop hook up options or software?

The PowerFC has an official laptop software hookup but it is only for Power Excel workshops. These are workshops endorsed by Apexi and they will not give out the software. You can now purchase the official PowerFC Cable and Software for around $550 AU. This includes the official cable and PowerFC software. The Software is in japanese and so is the manual. There is an unofficial product called the FC-Datalogit. This is a 3rd party product that includes a dongle/serial cable and software. It's retail is around $520 AU and supports full control of the system just like with the hand controller and supports logging to your laptop for replaying and viewing later. You can also make your own cable/dongle providing you know how (and have the PIC processor code). The diagram on my site needs PIC processor code to work and this code is NOT avaiable, is it not released for public use, please do not ask for it. Should cost around $50 in parts, then you can use the PowerFC Pro (if th cable works) software from my site. There is a new product on the way due for release in August which is the FC Tune. This appears to have the same functionality as the datalogit however it supports all of the cable types including a custom made one. Retail is rumored to be around $299 USD for the cable. The software is free.

Apex'i FC Pro Software and Cable (retail product)
FC Tune and Cable
Datalogit FC Edit and Datalogit Connector Box (retail product)
Kashima's custom cable (needs PIC processor code)

You should read here if you are intersted in
Автор самого интересного бортовика 2011
Золотые руки клуба 2011
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Аватара пользователя
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Re: Apexy PowerFC

Сообщение MMX » 30 июл 2018, 08:47

What does the PowerFC support in terms of modifications?

The PowerFC can support bigger injectors, larger turbos, aftermarket plenums, superchargers, nos kits, etc. The PowerFC is able to do this by allowing the tuner to adjust all the parameters of the engine on a load vs. rpm map for each of the core components. You can tune the computer to run xyz amount of fuel at 2300rpm on load xyz and to have xyz timing at the same load etc so the combinations are virtually endless. It will also support bigger airflow meters, different and custom meters, larger fuel pumps etc.

What do I need to do when changing my Airflow Meter?

When you choose another airflow meter to allow a large opening diameter or a higher resolution meter you need to select the unit from the [SETTING], [Airflow] menu and select it from the list. You should do this before you start your engine to prevent really unsafe mixtures and also to prevent stalling/bad idle. Once you have highlighted the correct model you have fitted to the car you can simply press [PREV] on the hand controller and return to normal [MONITOR] and start the car. It should idle OK (well hopefully) however this does not mean it is safe and ready to go. Selecting the correct airflow model simply loads the voltage ramp table into the PowerFC. This tells the PowerFC at what airflow levels the meter is reporing in its voltage range. You should have your AFR's checked with your tuner and a wideband after an airflow meter change to ensure its not too lean or too rich. If you need to drive a fair distance to your tuner or would like to run around for a few days on the new airflow meter without it being retuned/checked then theres a simple procedure you can follow

1. Let engine warm up and idle
2. Give the engine a bit of a rev in neutral and check to see if smoke comes out the exhaust.

3a. If you see *some* black smoke
-> Then its running rich (preferred) and it should be OK to drive around on light/low load, although your fuel economy will probably be terrible.

3b. If you see *lots* of black smoke
-> Then its running very very rich and you'll need to lean it out a bit. You can do this by going into [SETTING], [IGN/INJ] and then on the right hand side you will see INJ correction. You can then slowly change the ADJ value to a negative value in small increments. After a few adjustments give the engine a rev and there should not be as much black smoke. Repeat until there is a little bit but its not *lots* of black smoke.

3c. If you don't see any black smoke
-> Then its running lean or possibly too lean. Do the same procedure (as above) but add more fuel by adding or upping the ADJ value and after a few increments try a free rev. If you get some black smoke then you are starting to richen it up.

4. You should remember this value or write down the correction number used because if you turn the car's power off you must come back to here each time to put the value back in. This is because its only a temporary test mode and it should not be used all the time. You could also give this value to your tuner to give him an idea of how rich its running.

Source: Apexi Documentation

80m RB25 airflow meter can measure up to approx. 300ps (221kW)
80mm VG30 airflow meter can measure up to approx. 500ps (368kW)
90mm VH41 airflow meter can measure up to approx. 400ps (294kW)

*Output is calculated off of measurable air volume

Airflow Meter Adjustment Range
Using 100% as a base, the airflow can be adjusted from +50% (-50%) - 200%

How do I configure larger injectors?

Configuring larger injectors into the PowerFC is quiet simple and takes only a few moments. You need to know the following information before you can continue

Current injector size
Current injector latency
New injector Size
New injector Lag time

Injector Size and Latency (standard units)

To work out new INJECTOR correction and latency;

Old SIZE / New Size = Correction
New Latency - Old Latency = Latency Correction

John plans to install 600cc injectors into his RB26 VL Turbo. The following figure's are used;

444 / 600 = 0.74 * 100 = 74.0%
0.81 - 0.77 = +0.04 msec

So he would enter 74% for correction and 0.04 as new latency

Once you have switched to larger injectors you should still check your AFR's with a wideband to ensure they are safe and acceptable.

For a list of common OEM injectors and their settings try here;

Injector Chart - Side Feed OEM
Injector Chart - Top Feed OEM

Unit Size Latency
RB20 260cc/min 0.890msec
RB25 370cc/min 0.528msec
RB26 444cc/min 0.772msec
SR20 (Jap Spec Manual) 448cc/min 0.584msec
Nismo 480cc 480cc/min 1.100msec
Rx7 550cc 550cc/min 0.730msec
Nismo 550cc 550cc/min 0.710msec
Aftermarket New Units (example only) 600cc/min 0.810msec

Source: Apexi Documentation

If changing 440[cc/min] to aftermarket 600[cc/min]
440 / 600 = 0.73
Enter the value "0.73" for each cylinder.

Bolt-on turbo spec. POWER FC applications assume that the injectors have been upgraded. This is why "1.000" is not entered as the starting data for the injector values.

Injector Lag Time Setting

The POWER FC includes factory vehicle injector data. If you switch to any other type of injector, be sure to perform the calculations below and input the correct values.

Changing the factory 440[cc/min] with 0.78[msec] injector lag time to an aftermarket 600[cc/min] injector with 0.85[msec] injector lag time is:

"Injectors to be used" - "Factory Injectors" = "Correction Value After Changing"

0.85[msec] - 0.78[msec] = 0.07[msec]

Enter "0.07" into the [msec] parameter for each cylinder.

*If the aftermarket injectors have a shorter lag time, add a "-" (minus) before the value.

Изображение Изображение Изображение

On this screen you need to enter your new Correction% and Latency. Be sure to double check these numbers and consult your tuner if you are unsure.
If you enter the wrong values, this could be fatal to your engine so be careful.
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